Cell turnover slows. Through the natural exfoliation process, your skin sheds dead cells as younger ones, generated deep in the epidermis (skin’s top layer), migrate upward to replace them. In young, healthy skin, cells take about 28 days to reach the surface and flake off 12 days later. As you age, renewal slows: New cells aren’t produced as quickly, and old ones hang on longer. Free radicals attack. The body is assaulted by unstable oxygen molecules—called free radicals—from pollution, stress, cigarette smoke, and the skin’s top enemy, the sun. Over many years, this causes cell irregularities, including discoloration and cancer. Collagen breaks down. After age 40, the body typically slows down the rate it produces collagen, a mesh of protein that, together with elastin, helps keep your skin plump and elastic. When collagen degrades and is not replaced at the same rate, the outer skin loses volume and settles into creases and wrinkles. Skin dries out. Your cells lose moisture faster after 40, as estrogen production and thyroid function—both of which affect sweat glands—slow down. And here’s how to fight back: Cover up. Avoid the sun as much as possible. Stay in the shade between 10 AM and 2 PM, when UV rays are strongest, and wear a wide-brimmed hat and clothing that covers much of your body. Apply sunscreen every morning—a shot glass-full, slathered on thick. TRY: Upgrade your SPF Dermatologists have changed their sunblock recommendations for extended sun exposure from a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15, which blocks 93% of the sun’s radiation, to a broad-spectrum SPF 30, which blocks 97% and protects against both UVB rays (which typically cause sunburn) and UVAs (which age the skin more gradually). For skin that’s already faced years of sun exposure, that extra 4% can make a big difference in preventing further damage. Your SPF 15 products are still okay to wear if you spend most of your days indoors and get little exposure to the sun. More from Prevention: 15 Derm-Approved Suncare Tips [header = Catch Some Zzz’s] Get adequate sleep. They don’t call it beauty sleep for nothing. Skin cells regenerate more quickly when you snooze. Dark circles under the eyes are the immediate consequences of losing just a few hours of restorative sleep. Prolonged sleep deprivation can lead to dry, dull skin all over the body. TRY: Moisturize at night. The temperature of your skin rises slightly when you’re asleep, helping it absorb creams and lotions. Anti-aging potions may also work better because they’re not competing with makeup or sun exposure. Try a bedtime-specific cream such as ROC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream (evening formulas are often richer than daytime formulas but don’t contain SPF), and slather dry feet, hands, and nails with a rich, hydrating cream or petroleum jelly. Drink more water. Downing six to eight glasses of water each day helps skin stay elastic and supple, says Doris J. Day, MD, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center. “When the skin is adequately hydrated, it looks healthier and more vibrant, and makes some wrinkles less visible.” (It’s true. Check out 16 surprising ways water makes you pretty.) TRY: De-stress. Stress—both internal and external—makes the body’s defense mechanisms work overtime and deprives skin of moisture, leaving it drier and more vulnerable to irritants and allergens. Unwind during the day with quick periods of meditation or focused breathing—and do a quick exercise DVD (kickboxing?) after work. Just be sure to pick a mindful activity during which you are tuned in to your body and not distracted by your blasting iPod. Do cardio. “Think of the flush on your face after a good workout: That’s a sign that your skin’s getting the oxygen and nutrients it needs,” says Audrey Kunin, MD, a Kansas City, MO-based dermatologist and author of The Dermadoctor Skinstruction Manual. A good sweat flushes impurities from pores while you’re burning calories and keeping off extra pounds that could put unnecessary strain on the skin. Before you work out, make sure you’re well-hydrated, and use extra moisturizer, particularly in the drier, colder months. TRY: Yoga. “Stretching tones and conditions the muscles and firms up the skin they’re attached to,” says Hema Sundaram, MD, a Washington, DC-area dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon. Backward-bending poses such as the fish, camel, and cobra can counter gravity’s pull when done regularly, while the forward-bending child, bowing sun salutation, and headstand poses encourage a rich supply of blood to the face. And the more you can truly relax your facial muscles, the less you’re contributing to future crow’s feet, frown lines, and wrinkles. More from Prevention: 9 Yoga Moves For Better Sex Eat antioxidants. If skin’s biggest enemies are free radicals, its best friends are the vitamins and minerals that neutralize the volatile and destructive molecules. Eating lots of antioxidants—five to eight servings of fruits and vegetables a day—can combat cellular damage caused by free radicals. TRY: Green Tea. People who do so regularly have less sun-related skin damage than those who don’t, according to Dartmouth Medical School researchers. The tonic, which contains the powerful antioxidant EGCG, can be used as a topical ingredient as well. (Ask your dermatologist about Replenix, available in doctor’s offices). [header = 3 Wrinkle Fighters] 3 Essential Wrinkle Fighters:
- Retinols A derivative of vitamin A, retinol helps “unglue” dead skin cells, accelerating their removal and stimulating new growth. Its ability to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, and skin tone and color has been well documented. Start with an over-the-counter retinol, using a small amount a few nights a week. If you experience good results, consider moving up to a prescription-strength formula. (New to this anti-ager? Check out our complete retinol and retinoids guide.)
- AHAs Alternating a retinol cream with an alpha hydroxy acid—another exfoliant that attracts moisture to the skin—can renew your skin with fewer side effects, like peeling and redness. Use an AHA formula the nights you’re not using a retinol; both can increase sun sensitivity so are best applied before bed. Ask your dermatologist for specific product suggestions. AHAs consist of these five acid types:
Glycolic acid, from sugarcaneLactic acid, from milkMalic acid, from apples and pearsCitric acid, from lemons and orangesTartaric acid, from grapes
- Peptides These molecules contain a high content of hydroxyproline, the building block of collagen. Researchers believe they function as messengers in the skin, repairing broken collagen and elastin connections between the dermis and the epidermis. Look for algae and copper peptides; both have been well studied. Drugstore Wrinkle Fix Olay Regenerist’s serum, day cream, and night cream regimen (all of which contain peptides) was the top-rated performer in Consumer Reports’ 2007 antiwrinkle study. In a 12-week trial of 23 patients ages 30 to 70, the bargain combo beat out a $300-plus French line and seven other favorites, reducing fine lines by just under 10%. Also, be sure not to fall for these 5 skin care myths. Quick Tip: COME ON, SMILE! When older women flash a broad smile, they’re perceived even by younger people as more youthful and appealing, according to a study published in Psychology and Aging. More from Prevention: 10 Tricks to Get a Smile You Love Interested in other stay-young plans? See how you can Feel Fabulous After 40.
